Alpinist - There’re no safe paths in this part of the world, you’re over the edge of the wild now.
这篇影评可能有剧透
摘录
Legendary free soloist，A master of his craft 攀岩大师，Elusive climber 神出鬼没的登山者，Special breed另类，Push the limits of adventure，Monumental feat创举
Wild vision of adventure gripped me since I were a kid 自孩童时代就吸引我
Very driven climber but doesn’t care about accolades荣誉
He doesn’t lunge, he’s very precise，不是勇猛，而是精准。There’s not the slightest margin for error from the minute you set off. 从你出发的那一刻起就没有一丁点失误空间。岩壁就在你眼前，你不能去想其他任何事。And you’re interacting and improvising in the moment.
Hanging out with her reminded me of what I’d lost, what it was like to be, spirited. Unfettered, unleashed, absolutely solo. 无拘无束独行侠。Nothing fazes him. 没什么打扰他。
If you’re never given free rein to have a little adventure as a kid, you never really learn who you are, what your strengths and weaknesses are, and you never learn that you’re capable. Be a voracious reader. The more interested he showed in the books, the more books I provided for him.
I’m totally focused, not feeling that squirrel-brained, twitchy, I have the feeling of clarity, calmness and control.
If you want to do that climbing thing, what are you waiting for? Find freedom to be yourself. You’re going to go as far as you can take it.
Baffin Island 加拿大巴芬岛
He doesn’t share any info with us, it’s frustrating, but at the same time, it’s pretty noble. Marc just kind of follows his own path, he’s a free spirit, he’s building up to something big, but we had no idea what it would be.
I was frustrated that Marc had made his historical ascent and he hadn’t even let us in on his plan. “Because it wouldn’t be a solo to me if somebody was there. It just wouldn’t even be remotely close to the adventure that I was looking for. The only way I was interested was actually doing it fully by myself. And if that happened, I’d be OK to go back and film. I had this really awesome experience, now I’m actually ready to share it with people.”
Being by yourself out there, immersed in your environment, tuning in to the rustle of the leaves, the sound of the wind across the ridge, the aura that the mountain has.
几条规则
- 不带通信工具，即便是生命保障。
- The gold standard of alpinism is the on-sight solo，见山就爬。从未到过此山，从未进行线路预演，He has to figure it out on the fly.
- 读山。You control what you’re doing, but you can’t control what the mountain is doing. That’s by far the biggest danger in my mind, you’re at the mercy of alive mountain around you. 考虑雪崩，随时崩塌的冰塔，读大山发出的信号，冰雪状态，何时日出，这就像下一盘棋。You have this ultimate goal, but then unpredictable things are going to happen. Interaction with the mountain is a huge part of what makes alpine climbing so interesting. If you’re smart, you make the right moves, you can against the odds, pull off a great climb.
Moving over the mountain unencumbered, is about as close as you’re gonna come as a climber to sprouting wings and being totally free. Absolutely awake, absolutely alive. Receiving any kind of impulse that’s coming in and reacting to it almost instinctively. It’s a great dance. 不受阻碍地翻过这座山，你就像登山者一样长出翅膀，获得完全自由。绝对清醒，绝对活着，接受过来的任何冲动并几乎本能地做出反应，这是伟大的舞蹈。
He’s redefining what’s possible, playing with a pretty heavy deck. He has an insatiable desire to do more at an extreme level.
巴塔哥尼亚托瑞-艾格峰。Mindboggling to solo Torre Egger at winter time. It’s 1000-meter rock pillar rising up out of the glacier with an ice arete in the middle, and capped with ice mushrooms.
Holy smokes! 就像是我的全部生命把我带到了一个特定的地方
No alpine ascent is truly complete until the beers go clink. 在举起庆功酒之前，登山并不算真正完成。
When Marc comes out of the mountains, he has radiating energy, he had extreme experience that had moved him deeper than anything else could have.
When you are in the mountains with a mission, it’s like all of the superficialities of life just evaporate, and you can often find yourself in a deeper state of mind, and that can stick with you for a while after a big climb. You appreciate everything so much that you take for granted most of the time. The actual achievement doesn’t really change your life, like you think it might, when you’re building up to it, but what you’re left with is the journey that got you to that point。在伟大旅程之后，在非常美丽的地方呆了很长时间，然后必须非常努力工作克服某种mental barrier, you’re left with so much more of a story, memory and experience，那些才是最重要的东西。
It was like trying to capture lightning in a bottle.
Release me back into the wild.
我不知道生活会那么痛苦，直到体验到那种痛苦，我才知道那种痛苦是真实存在的。I didn’t even know this pain existed until you experienced it. 好像我们生活在幸福的魔法生活中，然后你被痛苦的冲击波击中，你再也不会是原来的你了。It’s like we’re living in this blissful magical life, and then you’re hit with this shockwave of pain, and you’ll never be the same.
Even if something happens, keep going, don’t lose your spirit, keep loving life. In theory you can say it, but to actually be living that, it’s super hard. The only time I could feel an escape from that was being in the mountains.
我如此的想念他，想念和他一起探险的日子。Thank you for giving me vision, thank you for sharing everything with me. Without Marc, it was like something was suddenly and irrevocably wrong with the universe.
He was one of a kind, he was an individual individual. 他是独一无二的。He just burnt very bright and he left an indelible mark on a lot of people in a short time. 他燃烧地耀眼，留下了不可磨灭的印记，影响了很多人。
What mother doesn’t worry about the children she’s raised to leave her and go out into this beautiful but dangerous and broken world? I believe Marc lived the life he was intended to live, that he was meant to scale mountains, stand on summits, find his way into lonely valleys. 他要丈量大山，立于顶峰，找到通往孤独山谷之路。
Tolkien in The Hobbit says, there’re no safe paths in this part of the world, you’re over the edge of the wild now. 托尔金在《霍比特人》中说，这个世界没有安全的路径，你现在已经到了荒野的边缘。
Thank you for giving us remarkable 25 years. It’s hard to reconcile the idealism of his ascents with the tragic consequences. But he followed the course of his own dreams. A lot of us live our lives thinking of the things we’d like to do or the adventures we’d like to have, but we hold back. That’s what really stands about Marc’s journey. It’s about what is it that you would do if you were able to overcome the things that you see as limitations or the things that you’re afraid of. What would you do?
