打卡伊万·麦克格雷格 再现美国上世纪时装光辉盛世
这篇剧评可能有剧透
又一部美国时尚设计大师传记片。。。侯斯顿。。 “喜欢花钱的艺术家” 大胆使用明亮色调、凸显个人个性。 伊万·麦克格雷格 （ 《猜火车》、《星战前传》、《红磨坊》、《随爱沉沦》） 演绎了这个天才设计师，侯斯顿 从60年代崛起到80年代逐渐沉寂。。。. McGregor treats Halston as a piece of art, a complex being with always more behind his moments of hubris and genius. A major breakthrough for Halston is presented early, in which he realizes he can slick his hair back, don sunglasses, and lower his voice. It's apresentation of power, and a costume. There could have been more from this script about how he came to these ideas, but such a moment is telling and adds to the richness of what McGregor is trying to do.
一些反馈：
侯斯顿家族 RoyHalstonFrowick 向Netflix 发函声称这部有关他的传记：不准确、小说艺术加工化。。。 “inaccurate” and “fictionalized.”
“The Halston Archives and Family were not consulted on the upcoming Netflix series involving an inaccurate, fictionalized account of famed fashion designer, ‘Halston,’” the family said in a statement to theAssociated Press. “The Halston Archives remains the only definitive and comprehensive source on the man and his legacy as the personally appointed custodian of his private papers and effects.”
Lesley Frowick, director of the Halston Archives and Halston’s niece, toldVarietythat the family was “never contacted” about the series, and were “collectively disappointed” by its production.
“I would like to let you know that in no way was the Halston family ever contacted about this production,” Frowick wrote in a statement toVariety. “Halston’s family spreads a wide swath of the world from Greece-all the way to California and we all collectively are disappointed that people continue to feel compelled to tell salacious and embellish stories on a persons private life when so many of his professional and other life accomplishments were more than most people will ever achieve in their lifetimes.”
一些背景：
20世纪60年代，卓越的美国设计师队伍逐渐发展壮大，在全球时尚市场上与欧洲设计师们相抗衡。休闲服的发明和高级营销管理的出现令美国模式拥有了欧洲竞争对手难以复制的竞争优势（尤其是在大众市场中），从而得以进入国际市场。
二战后的“婴儿潮”带来了7000多万生于20世纪60年代的青少年：那时的年轻人不仅叛逆，他们还创造并热切推广“反文化”，令其无所不在。那些在年轻市场中提供符合年轻人兴趣（时尚、舞厅、地下杂志，以及首当其冲的音乐）货品的年轻人迅速富裕起来。 美国人购物更看重产品风格，而非产品生产模式。产品原产地的概念如今已被品牌所属地所取代。产品的艺术内涵。创新优势（如法国）或卓越的制作工艺（如意大利）已不再那么重要，它与“美国梦”价值的一致性才是最具意义的。在过去的30年中，伟大的美国设计师们极佳地理解了这种生活方式，并将其转化为简约、休闲、适合各种场合的服装。
比尔·布尔斯（Bill Blass）、安妮·克莱恩（Anne Klein）、侯斯顿（Halston）、卡尔文·克莱恩（Calvin Klein）、唐娜·凯伦（Donna Karen）、迈克·科尔斯（Michael Kors）、马克·雅克布（Marc Jacobs）、纳西索·罗德里格斯（Narciso Rodriguez）和许多设计师们一道创造出一种美式风格识别。
